# How to Get a Blurry Background in Photos **By Chanuka Nayanajith** · 2026-09-30 To get a blurry background in a photo, combine four things: keep your subject well away from the background, move reasonably close to your subject, use a wider aperture when your camera allows it, and choose a longer focal length when it suits the composition. On a smartphone, Portrait mode can simulate additional background blur using depth information and computational processing. You do not need expensive equipment or every technique at once. In many situations, simply increasing the distance between your subject and the background can make a surprisingly large difference. The photographic effect you are creating is called a **shallow depth of field**, where only a relatively small range of distances appears acceptably sharp. The word **bokeh** is related but slightly different: it describes the visual character or quality of the out-of-focus areas rather than simply meaning “background blur.” If you want a deeper explanation of the camera setting involved, see our guide to [how aperture affects depth of field](/blogs/aperture/what-is-aperture-in-photography). ## A Simple Way to Get a Blurry Background If you want more background blur with the equipment you already own, try these steps in this order: 1. Move your subject farther away from the background. 2. Move closer to your subject while keeping a comfortable shooting distance. 3. Use a wider aperture, such as f/1.8, f/2.8 or the widest aperture your lens provides. 4. Use a longer focal length when it fits the composition. 5. Focus carefully on the most important detail, usually the nearest eye in a portrait. Each technique can increase subject separation on its own, but combining them usually creates a stronger effect. ## Move Your Subject Away from the Background Subject-to-background distance is especially useful because it costs nothing and works with almost any camera. Imagine photographing someone directly against a wall. The person's face and the wall are relatively close to the same focus distance, so it is difficult to make the wall extremely soft. Move that person several feet or metres away from the wall, focus on the person again, and the background is now much farther outside the focused region. If space allows, try this simple arrangement: - Place the subject well away from the wall, trees, buildings or other background elements. - Position yourself close enough to give the subject a strong presence in the frame. - Keep enough camera-to-subject distance to maintain a flattering perspective for portraits. - Take a test photo and compare it with one taken while the subject is close to the background. This can improve background separation even when you are using a basic kit lens or a smartphone. ## Use a Wider Aperture On a DSLR or mirrorless camera, aperture is one of the main controls for depth of field. A wider aperture is represented by a smaller f-number. For example, f/1.8 is wider than f/4. If your camera has Aperture Priority mode, normally marked **A** or **Av**, you can select the aperture while the camera handles other exposure settings automatically. A useful starting point for a single-person portrait might be: - f/1.8 to f/2.8 when you want strong background separation and can focus accurately. - f/2.8 to f/4 when you need a little more depth of field across the face or subject. - The widest aperture available when using a slower kit lens, combined with extra subject-to-background distance. These are starting points rather than rules. At very wide apertures, depth of field can become thin enough that one eye is sharp while another important part of the face becomes noticeably softer. The appropriate aperture depends on the subject, distance, focal length and creative goal. If f-numbers are still confusing, our [guide to f-stops](/blogs/aperture/what-is-an-f-stop-the-ultimate-beginners-guide-to-aperture) explains how they work. ### Remember the Exposure Trade-Off Opening the aperture also allows more light into the camera, so shutter speed and ISO may need to change to maintain the exposure you want. Understanding how these controls interact will help you avoid solving one problem while creating another. See our guide to [aperture, shutter speed and ISO](/blogs/exposure-triangle/how-aperture-shutter-speed-and-iso-work-together) for the full relationship. ## Do You Need an f/1.8 Lens? No. A fast lens can make shallow depth of field easier to achieve, but it is not required. A 50mm f/1.8 lens is popular because many camera systems offer relatively accessible versions, but wide-aperture prime lenses are only one option. Wide-aperture zoom lenses can also create strong separation, and even a variable-aperture kit zoom can produce visible background blur if you use distance effectively. If your lens only opens to f/4, f/5 or f/5.6 at the focal length you are using, compensate by moving the subject farther from the background and choosing your shooting position carefully. ## Use a Longer Focal Length When It Makes Sense A longer focal length can often help produce a larger, softer-looking out-of-focus background, especially when you adjust your shooting distance to keep the subject framed the way you want. For example, if you have a 24–70mm zoom, compare a portrait near 24mm with one near 70mm while adjusting your position for similar subject framing. If you have an 18–55mm kit lens, try the longer end of the zoom rather than assuming the lens cannot create background separation. There is one important distinction: the familiar “compressed” perspective of telephoto portraits comes primarily from shooting position and camera-to-subject distance, not from focal length acting by itself. Focal length changes the field of view, which often causes the photographer to change position, and that change in viewpoint affects perspective. ## A Simple Recipe for a Kit Lens You can still create a blurry background with a typical kit zoom. Try this approach: 1. Zoom toward the longer end of the lens. 2. Select the widest aperture available at that focal length. 3. Move the subject well away from the background. 4. Move close enough to the subject to create strong framing without distorting perspective. 5. Focus precisely on the subject and take a test shot. A kit lens may not produce the same amount of blur as a fast portrait lens in the same situation, but good subject placement can still create clear visual separation. ## Use Portrait Mode on a Smartphone Many modern smartphone Portrait modes can create a shallow-depth-of-field appearance by estimating the depth of the scene and applying additional blur to areas identified as being behind the subject. On supported phones, you may also be able to change the strength or focus point of the depth effect after capture. For cleaner Portrait mode results: - Give the phone a clearly defined subject. - Use good light when possible. - Avoid backgrounds that overlap the subject with many tiny details. - Watch closely around hair, glasses, transparent objects and fine edges. - Keep enough separation between the subject and background for the depth effect to look convincing. Portrait mode is computational rather than identical to optical shallow depth of field from a large-aperture camera lens. That does not make it unusable; it simply means the phone may occasionally misjudge complicated edges or foreground and background relationships. ## Pay Attention to the Background Itself Blur does not automatically make every background attractive. A bright pole behind someone's head or an intense patch of white sky can remain distracting even after it becomes out of focus. Before taking the photo, scan the edges and background of the frame. A small change in your shooting angle can remove distracting shapes without requiring any new equipment. Look for backgrounds containing: - Soft foliage. - Distant buildings. - Warm lights. - Sunlight passing through leaves. - Simple walls with enough subject separation. - Clean areas without bright objects directly behind the subject. ## How to Create Attractive Bokeh Bokeh becomes especially noticeable when small bright highlights are far outside the focused area. Decorative lights, streetlights, reflections and sunlight through leaves can turn into soft discs or shapes behind the subject. The exact appearance depends on factors including the lens design, aperture shape, focus distance, highlight distance and aperture setting. Two lenses can therefore produce different-looking out-of-focus areas even when both create a shallow depth of field. ## Does Sensor Size Affect Background Blur? Sensor size matters, but it should not be treated as a shortcut that automatically makes photographs better. When you compare cameras using equivalent subject framing and the same f-number, a larger-sensor system can make a shallower depth of field easier to achieve. However, APS-C cameras, Micro Four Thirds cameras and smartphones can still create strong subject separation through aperture, focal length, shooting distance and subject-to-background distance. If you are choosing between camera formats, our [full-frame vs APS-C guide](/blogs/photography-basics/full-frame-vs-aps-c-cameras-what-should-beginners-choose) explains the broader differences. ## Common Reasons Your Background Is Not Blurry Enough ### The Subject Is Too Close to the Background This is often the easiest issue to fix. Move the subject away from the wall, foliage or other background elements before changing equipment. ### Your Aperture Is Too Narrow An aperture such as f/8 or f/11 generally keeps more of the scene within acceptable focus than a wide aperture such as f/2. Use a wider aperture when shallow depth of field is the goal, provided you still have enough depth of field for the important parts of the subject. ### You Are Too Far from the Subject For the same lens and settings, getting closer to the focused subject can reduce the depth of field. Do not move so close that perspective becomes unflattering or the composition stops working. ### The Background Is Very Close Even a fast lens cannot completely compensate for poor subject placement in every situation. Increase the distance behind the subject whenever possible. ### Your Focus Is Missing the Subject A blurry background only looks intentional when the important part of the subject is properly focused. For portraits, use eye detection when your camera offers reliable eye autofocus, or position your focus point carefully over the eye. ### You Are Confusing Motion Blur with Background Blur Shallow depth of field makes areas in front of or behind the focused distance appear soft. Motion blur happens when the camera or subject moves during the exposure. A slower shutter speed can therefore make your subject blurry even when your depth of field is exactly where you intended it to be. ## Can You Add More Background Blur in Lightroom? Yes. Current Lightroom versions include Lens Blur tools that can estimate scene depth and apply additional blur after capture. This can be useful when the original background is slightly more distracting than you wanted or when you want to refine an existing shallow-depth-of-field look. Post-processing works best as a finishing tool rather than a reason to ignore the shooting technique. Complicated hair, transparent objects, overlapping subjects and uncertain depth relationships can require manual refinement. For portrait aperture decisions before editing, you can also read our [portrait aperture guide](/blogs/aperture/what-aperture-should-you-use-for-portrait-photography). ## Editing a Portrait After You Get the Blur Right Once focus and subject separation are working, editing can help refine exposure, white balance, contrast and color without trying to replace good capture technique. If you want a cinematic color starting point for portrait work, [Lightroom Presets for Cinematic & Portrait Photography](/products/lightroom-presets-for-cinematic-portrait-photography) includes 8 XMP preset looks and 8 DNG preset looks for supported Lightroom and Adobe Camera Raw workflows. Presets are a starting point, so exposure, white balance, skin tones and local adjustments may still need refinement for the individual photograph. ## Final Checklist for a Blurry Background - Put more distance between the subject and background. - Move reasonably close to the subject. - Use a wider aperture when available. - Try a longer focal length when it suits the composition. - Focus precisely on the important part of the subject. - Choose a clean background rather than relying on blur to hide distractions. - Use smartphone Portrait mode when computational blur is the most practical option. - Zoom in on the finished photo and confirm the subject itself is genuinely sharp. If you remember only one thing, start with distance. Moving the subject away from the background is free, works with almost every type of camera, and can improve background separation before you change a single camera setting. Written by [Asanka Dilshan](/pages/about-us) — founder of AAAPresets, serving 10,000+ customers. **Tags:** Aperture, Background Blur, Blurry Background, Bokeh, Depth of Field, Photography Tips, Portrait Photography --- > Source: [aaapresets](https://aaapresets.com/blogs/depth-of-field-bokeh/how-to-get-a-blurry-background-in-photos)